Wednesday 29 September 2010

Viticulture - An introduction to commercial grape growing for wine production

Viticulture - An introduction to commercial grape growing for wine production

A basic introduction to growing grapes for wine production. Aimed at the serious student in the wine trade, WSET Diploma student or Master of Wine candidate.
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Pruning the Backyard Grapevine

Proper pruning of your backyard grapevines is essential to maintain vine size, shape, and yield of the grapes. If you don't prune your vines, they will become unruly, tangled messes. Fruit ripeness will suffer. Overproduction of the vine may lead to premature death. It is also one of the harder things to visualize but one of the easier things to accomplish for the home gardener.



Pruning is performed in the early spring while the vine is still dormant. This is done in February, March, or early April depending upon when the grapevines generally come out of dormancy and bud out.
Pruning the grapevine and training the vine go hand-in-hand. You must decide the way you want to train the vine in order to prune it correctly. Vines that "droop" should be trained to a top wire of about 6 feet. Canes are then pruned and trained outward from the middle on each side of the trunk. As the new shoots grow, they droop on each side of this high pruned wire, naturally, taking in account of their habit of growth. Concord, and other native American varieties are typical of those varieties that droop downward naturally.

Varieties that grow upright are trained to a low wire of about 3 feet and allowed to grow upward according to their natural growth habit. These varieties need several wires above the trained canes in order that the upright growing shoots have something to attach to. Often, you will need to tie the growing shoots to these wires to keep the grown going up and to prevent wind damage. European grapes, V. vinifera, and many hybrid varieties (crosses between the European grape and American species) fall into this category.


Whether trained to a high wire or to a low wire, the pruning techniques are the same. The amount of one-year old, fruitful wood to be left after pruning is dependent upon the amount of vegetation produced during the previous growing season. Usually, around 90-95% of last year's growth is pruned off. The wood left is dependent upon the variety, how vigorous last years growth was, whether the variety over produces or under produces, and how old the vine is all enter into how you will prune it.

Grapes bear fruit on one year old wood. Thus when you prune the vine you will be leaving one year old buds to produce the fruit clusters this year. Much of what will be removed is two year wood with attached canes from last year's growth (that won't be needed this year) and excess one year old canes. When pruning you will be trying to balance the growth of the vine based upon how it grew and bore fruit last year.
Excessively vigorous vines that overbore their fruit last year will be pruned with more buds as this will de vigor the growth and balance the vine's growth this year. Low vigor vines will be left with fewer buds to invigorate their growth this year.


The two methods of pruning grapevines are short "spurs" and long "canes". The idea behind spur and cane pruning is the same. They differ in which of the buds are the most fruitful on the particular variety you are pruning. Varieties where the bottom buds are fruitful are spur pruned. Varieties where the bottom buds aren't fruitful are generally cane pruned.

Spur pruned vines are trained to heads and cordons. The difference here is that head trained vines are pruned to a couple to several spurs close in to the main trunk of the vine. Cordon trained vines have arms extending out from the trunk, on each side, with several spurs generated along the main frame of the arms. Either way of training has spurs of two to three buds each.


Cane pruning involves leaving at least one long cane of one-year old wood on each side of the trunk. The number of buds to leave depends on the variety and how much growth of the vine occurred during the last growing season. Usually, 7-12 buds are left on each cane. But this is relative. And that's where pruning becomes an art. After several years you will gain a "feel" of how many buds to leave based upon its performance in the prior growing season.

Besides the cane that is left, a small, two-bud spur is left for next year's cane and spur. That's why this method is often referred to as cane and spur pruning. The spur that is left at pruning time is known as a renewal spur. It gives rise to next year's cane and renewal spur.


Each year the job of pruning will become easier. You will soon begin to understand what is happening as you watch your vine grow during the summer. Your visualization of how the vine is supposed to look each year will grow. This will make the pruning each spring go smoothly.

The tools used to prune your grapevines are hand pruners, loppers, and small handsaws. Select the appropriate pruning tool to remove the wood as cleanly as possible and reduce unnecessary injury to the vine. Hand pruners are used to remove one year old wood. Older wood requires the use of loppers. Sometimes old, unfruitful trunks need to be removed. This is where the handsaw comes in.

Learning the art of grapevine pruning takes time and practice. You can contact your local county Ag Extension agent or Agricultural University for bulletins on grapevine pruning. These grapevine pruning bulletins have drawings and pictures of what you are trying to accomplish and will make your pruning easier. Just make sure that you prune your grapevines every year to maintain their size and shape, and to maximize the fruit production and overall fruit quality.

Tuesday 28 September 2010

Growing Grapes at Home

Growing grapes at home is not that much different from how they are grown in a large vineyard. The only real difference is space. There are several facets to growing healthy grapevines that need to be considered by both large vineyards and the home grower. The most important aspect of all these is tending to the vines. This will entail soil preparation, water, sunlight, pruning, and pest control. For many home grape growers, it is the pruning and the pest control that can be the most tedious.



Put simply, pruning is cutting away plant growth to encourage more growth. How the grapevine is pruned depends a lot upon the type of grapes that are being grown. Since hybrid grape varieties were developed to be hardier during the winter and more resistant to diseases, they tend to produce less foliage then the traditional types of grapevines. Grapevines need to be pruned to remove the previous years fruiting canes or spurs. Grapes are only produced on shoots growing from one-year-old canes. Therefore, healthy new canes must be produced by the vine every year. If too much of the vine is pruned back, more shoots will grow on the vine, which in turn, produces more crop and foliage. But this is actually a disadvantage since increased foliage on a vine results in a shady canopy, and this provides a bad environment for the fruit to ripen. The home grape grower has to be careful when pruning to avoid any unnecessary injury to the plant. When removing year-old shoots, a hand pruner can be used effectively. Larger wood on the vine should be cut with either a lopper or a handsaw.


The home grape grower spends a lot of their time dealing with pests like insects, birds and even deer. There are a large number of insects, like grape berry moths, grape leafhoppers, Japanese beetles, and rose chafers that would love to dine on a delicious grapevine. Insecticides can be used to control insect infestation but typically, grapevines can withstand a small amount of insect damage. It is only necessary to control insects when a large portion of the leaf area or the fruit itself is threatened.


Birds, on the other hand, can be much more destructive. A flock of birds can devastate a crop of grapes but, on the bright side, a large flock of birds is easier to scare away than individual birds. Home grape growers can control birds by installing a physical barrier, like a net, over all of the vines. But it has to be taken down before the winter or ice could form on it and damage the vines. Home grape growers can also use visual repellents such as aluminum pie plates, artificial hawks, owls, or snakes. Odor repellents are something that are very effective when it comes to controlling deer. In early spring when shoots are just emerging from the vine and food sources are scarce, home grown vineyards are extremely tempting for the deer. Home grape growers can also use the scent of a human, dog hair, or soap to scare off unwanted birds. Additionally, the scent of coyotes can also be used since coyotes are natural predators to deer.

The Grape Cure

Lose Weight, Feel Great, And Maybe Even Heal What Ails You With The Grape Cure.


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Monday 27 September 2010

How to Grow Grape Vines in the Right Soil

Growing vines in the right soil is the most pivotal feature of grape growing. The type of soil, its mineral, content and the environmental conditions all play an extremely important role in the health and productivity of the grape vine. Before you plant your grape vines you should have your soil analyzed. Adding nutrients to soil that is lacking is easy, but removing unwanted excess nutrients is nearly impossible.

Grape vines are fairly adaptable and don't need much to feed on, meaning they do well in rich, highly organic soils. A positive aspect of growing grapes vines that do not require excessive amounts of nutrients is that a lack of nutrients within the soil will help prevent excessive weed growth. But if your soil test is showing too much nutrient deficiency, you should look to a professional for advice on how to establish good soil for your grape vines.



If the wrong adjustments are made to the soil, it could have significant impact on your vines, resulting in excessive unwanted vine and leaf growth in some regions. Something that should also be measured is the soil’s pH level. The soil can be alkaline or acidic depending on the region of the country you are growing your grape vines in and the surrounding waterways and other natural formations. A pH that is between 6.0 and 6.5 is perfect for grape vine nutrient intake. You may need to incorporate lime if your soil is acidic meaning that the pH is lower then 6.0. If your soil is basic, or higher then 7.0, you may need to find rootstock that has been adapted to limestone soil conditions.


It may be necessary to add fertilizer to the soil during the time in which the grapes are ripening and after the first harvest season. The nutrients within the soil will be depleted as the grape vine matures and produces fruit. The use of organic fertilizer like manure has risen among grape growers for many different reasons. One reason is that manure is a natural source of usable nitrogen. The type of manure you need depends upon the amount of nitrogen, phosphorous and potassium your vineyard soil requires.

The nutrients within the soil are not the only requirements needed for growing a healthy grape vine. The soil must also supply good anchorage for the vine and provide proper drainage. Grape vines that are grown in soil that has too many nutrients and water go "vegetative". This means that the grape vines will return to leaf growth and will stop producing fruit. Grape vines do not like to sit in puddles and will not grow well in really wet areas. The most established vine yards are well known for excellent drainage.

A need for good drainage is one of the many reasons why many vineyards are planted on hillsides. Not only do steep hillsides aid in the drainage of the crop, they also are typically low in nutrient or organic matter due to years of erosion. In addition to a trellis, the grape vine’s root system requires ample anchorage from the soil as well in order to support this large plant. They require about thirty to forty inches of loose soil in order to establish a wide root system.

Grow Grapes, Make Wine

This book is a comprehensive guide to grape varieties, vineyard management, and grape growing. It also goes into great detail on how to make wine.


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Sunday 26 September 2010

Tips For Successful Backyard Grape Growing


Growing grapes in the backyard or garden can be a rewarding experience. It can also be quite a failure if not done properly. Grapevines are perennial plants and will grow for years to come. There are a few things to consider before you just jump in and start planting your grapevines. Otherwise, mistakes made at planting will haunt you in the future.

Grapes need lots of sunshine. One of the biggest mistakes that the home gardener makes when growing grapes is to plant them in the shade under a tree or where they get shaded by houses most of the day. If you watch wild grapevines grow, you will notice they make all efforts to climb trees and shrubs to get into the daylight. Without proper sunlight, proper ripeness cannot be obtained. Be sure the spot you choose has good sun most of the day.

A second mistake that many home gardeners make is to not take into account the grape variety's growth habit and vigor. These two factors come into play when planting the grapevine and deciding on how to trellis the vine.

Vigorous varieties need lots of space. You can find out how vigorous a variety is by consulting your local nursery where you bought your vines. Vigorous varieties need eight feet between vines when planting. Less vigorous varieties can be planted closer at six feet between vines. Very low vigor vines can be planted as close as four feet.

Growth habit determines the trellis type and how the grapevine will be trained and pruned. Grape varieties with a large portion of their ancestry coming from wild American species tend to droop. These are like the wild vines that grow to the top of small trees and shrubs then cascade downward during the summer. The gardener will find that it is best to mimic this natural growth.

Vines of this type will be trained to a high wire about six feet off the ground. The grapevines are pruned to two to four long canes each year. As the shoots grow each year from the canes left at pruning time, they will grow outward from each side and soon start drooping towards the ground, forming a curtain of leaves by the end of the growing season.

Many varieties have the European grape, V.vinifera, in their ancestry. The European grape varieties tend to have a more upright growth. These grape varieties need a more extensive trellis system. At least four wires are needed to contain them. The first wire is approximately three feet off the ground with the two additional wires at eight inch intervals above the bottom wire. The vines are trained to a trunk that extends to the bottom wire.
Two to four canes are pruned and tied to the bottom wire on each side of the trunk. As the shoots grow during the spring and summer they are tied straight up to the wires above. Once the shoots have reached approximately 16 inches above the top wire, they are cut off at the tips. This "hedging" prevents further growth and shading of the vine below.

Grapes need a good water supply when they are actively growing in the spring and summer. They should be watered at least once a week in areas of little rain. More often under droughty conditions. This watering shoud be continued until the berries begin to turn color. After coloring, watering is not needed and will in fact slow the ripening process. Once the leaves have fallen in the fall, one last large watering should be undertaken before the ground freezes to get the vines through the winter.

Perhaps the biggest mistake I see with home gardeners growing grapes is neglecting pruning the vines each year. This is a must! Without pruning the grapevine becomes an overgrown tangled mess. The grapevines overbear and the berries don't ripen properly. Disease sets in as the vine is over shaded and doesn't recieve drying winds. The vines will weaken over time and eventually die before their time.
Pruning removes 90-95% of the previous year's growth. It keeps the vines in balance and aids in controlling the crop and ripening the fruit. Pruning the grapevine is an art, not a science. Information on grapevine pruning can be obtained through your local Ag Extension agent. They have agricultural bulletins that detail the pruning process. You can also find comments at: http://www.ristcanyonvineyards.com/grapevine_pruning_and_training.html


Growing grapevines can be a nice hobby that will provide you and your family with fresh fruit or grapes to make wine with. Table grape varieties and wine varieties are distinct. Make sure you are planting the proper varieties for the wanted purpose. Home gardeners should also make sure that the varieties they are planting are adapted to their local climate. Some varieties cannot take cold winters, while others can tolerate freezing temperatures down to -25-30F.

Varieties that have American grape species in their ancestry can tolerate colder winters. Make sure you consult with your nurseryman to fit the variety you are planting to your conditions. The variety you choose must also be able to ripen in your climate. I see too many home gardeners planting varieties that take up to 170 days or more to ripen in areas that have only 150 days or less in their growing seasons.
If you are thinking of growing grapevines in your backyard or garden, be sure to consider the above factors before you start planting. Choose your grape varieties based upon what you plan to use them for, how they are adapted to the local growing conditions, and plan the trellis according to the variety's growth habit. I wish you all the luck in your endeavor.

The Grapes Grow Sweet: A Child's First Family Grape Harvest

The Grapes Grow Sweet: A Child's First Family Grape Harvest

For the first time, four-year-old Julian is old enough to take part in the grape harvest on his family's vineyard. Through Julian's wonder, The Grapes Grow Sweet offers a captivating glimpse of growing up on a family vineyard in wine country. Readers follow the development of the grape from bloom to harvest, and see up close the animal and plant life of the vineyard.
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Grape Growing Information


Although there are many other uses for these delectable fruits, grapes are the basis for most of the world's wine. About seventy-one percent of grapes from around the world are used for wine making, twenty-seven percent are used as fresh fruit, and the remaining two percent of the grapes are used in the form of dry fruit.

There are other types of fruits that are used to create wines, but it is the grape that may just be the perfect fruit for wine making. Grapes contain the right properties to produce wine. Such characteristics of grapes include naturally-high amounts of fermentable sugar, strong flavors, and color in the skins. Grape species have also been refined to deliver the utmost in aroma and flavor. Typically, grape juices are prepared from Vitis labrusca grapes, which are a grape species that is native to the Americas, because these grapes have loose skin that can be easily peeled off. Vitis vinifera grapes, which is a species of grape that is native to Europe and East and Central Asia, but has been planted all over the world, have a tight skin and can also be used for the production of wine. Grapes are also highly nutritional. They are a rich source of carbohydrates, protein, healthy fats, and they are cholesterol-free.


Although smaller then the productive vineyards all over the world, many people have succeeded in growing their own grapes at home and even in producing their own wine. Although the time it takes to tend to a small flourishing vineyard is great, the techniques to grow healthy grapevines is minimal. Home grape growers start their vineyards by finding a spot in their yard that possesses optimal conditions in which to successfully grow grapes. First, the area must have good exposure to sunlight and good drainage. After a good rainfall, examine the area you wish to grow your grapes for standing water. Standing water is a good indication that the area does not have sufficient drainage.

Planting your vineyard on a slope will also provide the drainage needed to sustain grapevines. A slope can also reduce the grapevine’s exposure to heat or cold depending on its orientation. For example, in the cooler regions of the Northern Hemisphere, grapevines benefit from being planted on south facing slopes which offers exposure to a fair amount of heat and sunlight. Tending a vineyard will require daily care. Plant your vineyard where it can be easily accessed during the growing season for pruning, weeding and pest control. You should also make sure that tools and water are easily accessible as well.



Once you have the perfect location for your vineyard, you will need to prepare the soil and construct the trellis. Grapevines are a large plant that and are unable to sustain the weight of the grape clusters it produces. In the wild, grapevines can be found growing on structures like poles and fences. Grapes are perennial plants and therefore it will be about three years before you are able to harvest your first crop. Therefore it is very important to have a sturdy trellis that will last.

Once you are able to harvest your crop, you will be able to make your own wine. The amazing thing about grapes is that the soil and the area in which the grapes are grown will have a significant impact on the taste of the wine thereby making your wine truly unique.